The NEW VOLARE PRODUCTS STORE IS NOW OPEN!!!

31 January 2024:

Click HERE to shop NOW!

This is my new store on SHOPIFY.  All of my Blog Posts and Documentation will remain here.

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NEW KIT – the T.E.A.M. HiMax NoCal Short Kit

I’ve got this ready to go!  Last week, I flew it to an amazing 4:14 on its first day.  Now, you can get your own short kit.  Cut from 5-6# balsa to help you build in lightness!  And it includes 1/32″ sheet laser-cut Larrabee-profile prop blades just like I used (you will need to form them).

Get the Short Kit, including aluminum NoCal nose bearing, HERE

Read about my Day One Adventures HERE

 

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Flying a New NoCal – the T.E.A.M. HiMax

Did you ever have one of those days?  This will tell about Day One with my new T.E.A.M. HiMax NoCal.

The History

For some reason, the HiMax is one of my favorite planes to model.  This dates back to the early ’90s building and flying Peanuts with the Cleveland Free Flight Society.  As far as NoCal, I know I built one that flew “pretty well” at Akron back in 2013.  I may have built one before: I just can’t remember.  In any case, “pretty well” was just ok – probably around 2 minutes – not bad for an outdoor guy flying indoor, but never really competitive indoors.  I still have that one.

2013 version the wing markings were incorrect – there was no registration on the top of the wing

2013 version flying at Akron. A carved wood prop replaced the Ikara 6″ Indoor prop in the first picture.

The Build

Fast Forward to Fall 2024.  Last year, I built a BD-4 for indoor but it didn’t fly exactly as I wanted it to, so I thought, let’s build another HiMax.  I’ve learned a bit since 2013 about indoor building and flying.  I redesigned the model to what I considered “minimal” structure and built it from light wood (5#, I think).  I used a 7% Simplex airfoil at +2 degrees and the wing has 54 square inches of area.  I located the tail hook so the rubber would come close to balancing the model.  And I formed a 9″ diameter, 13.5″ pitch prop with a 1.375″ blade width.  I have struggled a little with 10″x15″ props so I reduced the diameter a little bit, hoping the reduction would make it easier to trim.

Building this delicate paid off in a way:  the model came out to just about 4.5 grams without rubber.  Of course, there had to be “problems”.  The HiMax has wing struts.  This will cause problems when winding.  Either I have to wind off the model (like I usually do with NoCals) or I have to wind with the rubber on the plane and the model on a stooge, much like any other Scale model.  I thought for a long time how to make a stick that would allow me to wind externally, transfer to a stick and load into the model.  But I felt this would be more trouble than it would be worth, so I decided to wind with the model on the stooge.  This meant winding with the rubber passing through the model between the fuselage and wing and wind struts.  If the rubber breaks, damage will be done.  I did have to mount a small piece of aluminum tubing just in back of the tail hook to mount the model on the stooge.

One of Those Days

So, I took the model to our first Indoor contest to test it out.  I had done nothing other than a small test glide in my living room to check the cg – it was close enough.  I loaded up an 18″ motor of 0.085″ rubber and wound in 1000 turns.  It was a little stall-y, so I adjusted the thrust and tossed again.  Pretty much the same.  More adjustments and a small bit of nose weight.  By the time the 1,000 turns ran out, I had a fairly decent trim.

I wound in 1,500 turns and let it go.  Ok, there it goes!  It was climbing well (maybe a bit fast) circling to the left.  Past advisors had told me to circle to the right and put is washin/washout to encourage that – but I think I got that wrong/opposite during strut installation, so I flew it left.  That first flight – it turned out well.  It flew to the rafters, but didn’t bump.  It landed at an impressive (for me and a first flight) 2:58!

the results of the first attempted flight on 1500 turns.

I decided that maybe 0.085″ was a little too strong, since I was at 1,500 turns and knew the motor could take several hundred more.  So I loaded a 20″ loop of 0.080″ and went again at 1,500.  This time I got 3:06 with much the same flight pattern – a fast (but stable) climb, very near the rafters, and landing with a pretty good time!  The next flight was just over 1,800 turns – 3:15 but with a couple of bangs on the rafters.

I decided to try something different.  These climbs were fast – and the flights need to be longer to be competitive.  I got out some 0.070″ rubber and made a 24″ loop.  This was a lot less power and a lot longer.  I cranked in 2,500 turns and watched the climb-out – it was a similar pattern, maybe not quite a quick to the roof.  In fact, it didn’t get quite as high.  It landed at a disappointing 2:44 with a bunch of turns left.  Unwinding on the stooge showed 1,200 turns remained in the motor!  So, while it would climb out well enough but it just couldn’t sustain the cruise.

I thought about finding some 0.075″ rubber, but wanted to try something first.  I decided to chop off part of the tail end of the motor.  The new motor ended up about 18″ long.  I wound it up to 1,975 and watched it go up faster than before and actually cruise around.  It landed at 3:25 – best of the day.  But it had turns still on the motor – 350 left.   One last attempt.  I opened up the left circle a little bit, thinking the tight circle was holding the model back.  With a wider circle on 2,000 turns, I was rewarded with a most unexpected 4:14!

I hadn’t expected flights like these on the first day.  And I was very surprised I was able to use 0.070″ rubber – that’s thinner than I expected!  So this little model has already surpassed my expectations!  (By the way, 4:14 was good for SECOND Place today; I lost to Don Tang flying a Turbo Cessna 195 – my design – to a 4:36.)

The drawing needs to be finished (several details need to be added) and I will get the Short Kit online soon!  I might even include laser-cut blades.

 

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Product Update – 2 styles of Dow 33 Lube!

I recently picked up some old-school Dow 33 Medium (pink) at a reasonable price.  When I got it I realized that I had been mis-identifying my stock of Dow 33 – I now have Dow 33 Medium (pink) and Dow 33 Light (white).  The “medium” and “light” refers to the lubricant’s viscosity – how thick it is.  So now you have two choices!

In addition the price on BOTH has been reduced to $27 a tube!

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Two More 3D Products! – Mini Nose Buttons and a Tracker Box

Two new 3D-Printed products are being released.

The first is VPS Mini Adjustable Nose Buttons.

These have been in development for a couple years.  With permission of Model Aviation Products, I have created a much smaller version of the Gizmo Geezer Adjustable Nose button.  These are KITS (you assemble) and are suitable for Peanuts, Pistachios, and NoCals (try to keep the power LESS THAN a loop of 1/8″ rubber).  They weight about 0.35 grams assembled.

Get them HERE.

The second is a Storage Box for your BMK Tracker.  This replaces the cardboard box, utilizes the original foam insert, and provides a nice hard shell for your equipment.

Get it HERE.

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NEW KIT – P-63 Short Kit for WWII NoCal

I bumped into this Short Kit this morning and wondered “why haven’t I posted it, this is from last year?”  Well, it looks like I had to finish the printed tissue templates.  I did that (minor editing), loaded that file onto the server, edited the Printed Tissue Template Page, and loaded the kit into the sales catalog.

Winn Moore requested the P-63 for our Indoor WWII NoCal Combat last season and proved the design, getting over 2 minutes in testing.

Now you can get all of the above (but the 2 minutes is up to you!)

Get the Short Kit (with nose bearing) HERE

Get the tissue template HERE

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Tool Development – NoCal Prop Spar Drill Jig

Yesterday morning, I was sitting here dreading the build-out of a NoCal prop or two.  They aren’t difficult, but they take time.  Also, I’ve been thinking “I need to make something new to print out (what – I don’t know).”

So, somehow, the two got combined.  Part of building a NoCal prop is the prop spar.  Not being a super-duper indoor fanatic, I use pre-made dowels that are actually medical Q-Tip shafts (yeah, I used to sell these).  They are heavier than balsa – but they are stronger, too.  I’m not a fanatic about conserving micro-grams, so they are good enough for me.

But there are two things that are critical to the creation of these spars: 1 – the prop shaft hole needs to be in the middle (r-to-l) of the spar and it needs to be perpendicular to the spar.  So, rather than build a prop, I decided to see if I could tackle these issues with a little jig.  It took just a little over an hour from empty page to printed and assembled product, ready to test.

Here’s the Volare Products NoCal Prop Spar Drill Jig (buy it HERE):

the Drill Jig in closed position

the Drill Jig in open position. It is made from two parts with a bit of printing filament as a hinge (the red in the photo). Features: both pieces are grooved to accept the dowel; both pieces have a 0.025″ hole drilled in the center, perpendicular to the spar groove; and it has notches designed to create spars with lengths of 4″, 3.5″, or 3″ in overall length.

you should set your prop shaft drill to a depth that goes through the base, the spar, and the lid.

For a 4″ prop, insert the dowel into the jig and make the end of the dowel flush with the end of the jig, as shown.

on the other end, trim the dowel flush with the opposite edge of the jig.

with the dowel in place and captive in the jig, drill from the “bottom” of the jig. It is pre-drilled at 0.025″ and the depth of the base will guide the drill squarely into and through the spar. Drilling from the top is NOT recommended, as the lid does not have enough depth to squarely guide the drill.

results

to trim to a a 3.5″ or 3″ length, open the lid and insert the drill or music wire into the new hole and into the base to locate the spar. Use a knife to mark the spar at one of the existing notches in the base. Remove the spar, cut the end, reinstall the spar, notch, and cut the longer end in the same manner.

the end product!

 

 

 

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New BMK Products – RDT Band Burner System and LiPo Discharger!

I have added two new BMK products:

The RDT Band Burner system and the small LiPo Dis-Charger.  THe RDT band Burner can be had in 3 varieties:  1:  full setup, 2: Burner Board and Battery, and 3: Burner Board only.

If there is a BMK product that you want, let me know!

Find them HERE

Remote DT Band Burner system

 

LiPo dis-charger

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A NEW JETCAT KIT! – Canberra

This falls under “if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em”.  Winn Moore convinced me to produce a Canberra kit.  The Canberra is a popular JetCat.  The first-generation jet bomber had a generous wing and good proportions – and all versions seem to fly well.  So, Winn came up with a size (13″ span) and wing structure (Jedelsky-style) and asked me to cut a kit.

He built a couple prototypes which have flown well.  I built one and struggled with it.  Together, we decided to add a touch more incidence and I built a second prototype.  Whereas most of my JetCats “show potential”, this one skipped that phase and went right to “it flies”!

As you might recall, my backyard is “large” for a yard, but small for a testing field.  And it is surrounded by trees.  Because of this limited area and dangerous boundaries, I am restricted to low-power testing.  Yes, there were some tweaks – gurney flaps, nose weight, etc. – but I was getting very promising flights right off the board.  And, maybe most importantly, I was getting repeatable transitions from power to glide.  Yes, I got into the trees a few times, but I was able to position myself in the yard to accommodate the launch to the right and the glide to the left and keep the model inside trees.  I stopped testing when I got two LOW POWER flights of just over 20 seconds.

Yesterday, the Cloudbusters had a contest at our field.  The weather forecast wasn’t great, but I was surprised by a calm morning with the only downside being a wet field due to overnight rains.  Under full power, I had many flights in the 25-30 second range.  And that is with no lift at all and heavy, wet air.  This model is ready for some good air, but we might have to wait until next year.

I’ve put together a kit package and you can find it here, if you’re interested.

Canberra Jet Cat Laser Cut FULL Kit

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BMK PRODUCTS HERE!

I have been authorized to sell the BMK Line of DT and Tracker products.

I will be putting in my first order at the end of this week (Sunday, 11 August).  I have added Band Burners and Trackers to my catalog.  I will take PRE-ORDERS for these items and those orders will be included in my first order to BMK.  I expect to be able to ship in late August.

The Band Burners in my catalog are at INTRODUCTORY PRICES (which will revert to regular prices Monday, after I place the initial order), so grab them now!

NOTE:  if there is a specific BMK product that you want that is not shown, contact me and I will get it ordered for you.

Find all of my BMK Products HERE.

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Modern (and Low-Cost) Tools to Help Find your Model

When you get better at building and flying, your models start going higher and farther downwind.  If you want them back, you need to be able to locate them after they land.  I am going to talk about three or four things that will help you with your location techniques.

  1.  watch the model land.  You (or your timer) need to keep an eye on the model throughout the flight and note exactly where it lands. For most of us, we had pretty good eyesight when we were young, but these days it is getting worse – we need some optical assistance.  I use a pair of binoculars whenever I time for someone.  I have a generic brand of 10×50 binoculars with a built-in compass (google “10×50 marine rangefinder compass”).
    I have found that the compass is suspect, so I don’t use it, but 10×50 is a good power size.  I know I can get greater magnification, but I already have trouble finding a model that is far downwind.  A narrower field of vision (which a higher magnification would have) would make spotting the model even harder.  Get an eye on the model early and track it through the entire flight.  As it comes down, it is CRITICAL to do three things: a) mentally note where you are seeing the model go down and its direction of travel, b) find a landmark behind that location that is easily identifiable – a tree, or a building, etc. and c) note where you are currently standing or sitting.  Two points define a line:  the landmark in the distance is one of those points and where you’re standing/sitting is the second.  This line will be very important – your distant landmark is useless without the origin location.
  2. taking a step into “modern” searching, especially when the model is very far away, requires some new tools, including a compass.  This can be a hand held mechanical compass or a digital compass app on your phone. You will need this to get a bearing in degrees (you will need this numeric degree value later).
    1. For the mechanical style, get a “lensatic” or “military sighting compass” like this:

      another web image. You can find these for about $10, give or take.

      Obtain the degrees like by sighting into the eyepiece like this:

      another web image. Find your landmark and read the degrees.

    2. there are many cell phone compass apps, but here are the best for our purposes.  “Compass i8” (for iPhone) and “Compass 22G” (for android).  These are free, but may contain ads; you can purchase the app to be add-free for under $5.  These use your cell phone and camera to obtain the bearing.  Open the app, hold the phone vertically, find your landmark on the screen, and read the bearing.

      This is a real-world screen shot of Compass i8 that was sent to me by Tom Hallman when he had a line on my plane that went into the corn. We found the model (see below).

      Both of these apps look like this and they have a picture-taking function.  Unfortunately, the resulting photo does not have the compass overlay, so it is best to take a screenshot.

  3. The last bit of modern technology is another cell phone app called “Bearing (Azimuth) Navigation” (for android).  This allows you to enter in the bearing you just obtained and it will plot a line over the google maps image of the area.  The best part?  Keeping the app open while you go search will track your wanderings and allow you to move back to the plotted line as you deviate.  This really works.  Check out this image:

    This  is a real world plotted line (in Yellow) and tracking (in red) of our search for a missing plane.  Doug Griggs was standing at the left end of the yellow line and know where he last saw his plane.  I went out to where he was standing and plotted the yellow line using a compass bearing app.  We rode back to the base, got a golf cart, and went down the road to an entry point into the woods.  Then we went into the woods on foot and tried to find his landmarks as we approached the plotted line.  As we came out of a low area and finally saw his landmark on a rise, Doug found his plane.  This was at the last intersection of the Yellow plot line and the Red wandering line.

    Doug Griggs finding his plane right on the line he sighted and I plotted.

    This app was created by a modeler for just this purpose.  Unfortunately, I do not know if there is an equivalent iPhone app.

Do you want to increase your accuracy even more?  Use these techniques with TWO people standing at different locations.  If both have done a good job of sighting the model and bearing, your model will be at the intersection of their two plot lines.  The searcher needs to go along one line and then the plotter of the second line needs to say when your line intersects with his line.  Your plane will be in that general area (this is triangulation).

Winn Moore (left) and me after a successful trek into the corn to find my lost Miss Production. We used all of these tools, including two lines (one by Tom Hallman, one by Pat Murray), a pole (to locate us in the corn), and a cell phone (taped to the pole) to coordinate the lines and searchers. Note: a tracker would have made this much easier! a Tom Hallman photo.

You can increase the odds of discovery by utilizing a tracker, but these are higher tech and more expensive tools that may be out of reach for most modelers.  The use of a long pole can be helpful when searching in the corn – so the observer can see where you are.

 

 

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