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<\/a><\/p>\nThis allowed a press-fit of the motor into the nose button and I could swap out the existing GG nose button for the now-electric nose button on the HiMax nose block.\u00a0 I used the GG nose button because I love the how it makes thrust adjustment so simple.\u00a0 If it works for rubber power, it will work for electric power, too.<\/p>\n
Next was mounting of the circuit board onto the model.\u00a0 A little bit of thought had to go into this.\u00a0 I wanted it as far back in the model as practical (the model was nose heavy).\u00a0 Also, the charge socket had to be accessible and I wanted it to be on the bottom of the model.\u00a0 I knew the charge system was “instant-on” – once I unplug it, the motor is going full speed and I need to launch.\u00a0 So I had to consider exactly how I was going to do this (hold the model with my right hand where I would to launch, plug in the charger with my left, unplug and toss).<\/p>\n
I cut a hole in the tissue, and made a sheet base to hold the circuit board.\u00a0 Then I ran the motor to the nose and glued the board in place with CA.\u00a0 Through some trial and error, I glued the noseblock in place and just had the GG button as the removable part for assembly (temporarily removable – friction fit).<\/p>\n the first (unsuccessful) board installation. plugging in broke the board off the mount so a new platform was made (not shown).<\/p><\/div>\n My first venture to the back yard was a 50\/50 success:\u00a0 it would take a charge and powered flight was achieved, but I did a terrible job of solidly mounting the circuit board – the insertion force of the charger broke the mount.\u00a0 Back inside and re-engineer the mount.\u00a0 It took some time, mistakes were made, but I now have a solid mount.<\/p>\n you can see the nose of the motor in the GG nose button. Also the tiny prop that pulls the plane around. This is about 1.875″ diameter (48mm?)<\/p><\/div>\n After a couple of partial charge flights, I was able to get a climbing turn dialed in and managed to fly off my tiny field into the surrounding pine trees about 30 feet up.\u00a0 After much persuading with my pole, the model came down, but suffered a good deal of strut damage.<\/p>\n what happens when you are not careful with the Thin CA. Apparently, it wicked into the charge port and it refused to switch from “charge” to “run”. The LED shows it is charged, the charger is unplugged, but the prop is not turning!<\/p><\/div>\n I now have an electric-powered Scale Free Flight model! The power unit weighs in at about 4.5 grams.\u00a0 This was a 10 gram model so all-up weight is now 14.5 grams.\u00a0 With 32.5 square inches, this works out to be a 0.45g\/sq.in. wing loading – not terrible.<\/p>\n I will say this:\u00a0 for all of my worries, this was an easy project.\u00a0 Of course, except for the new thrust settings, the model was already trimmed.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" I am a dedicated rubber-power guy.\u00a0 I don’t do gas; I’ve thought about compressed air and CO2; and electricity just seems to be too hard (assembling circuitry isn’t for me). But a year or so ago, Vincent Merlijn, in the … Continue reading <\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/a>