![\"pby01\"](\"https:\/\/volareproducts.com\/new2024\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/PBY01.jpg\")
<\/a>This is the laser-cut parts:\u00a0 two 3″x12″ sheets of 1\/32″ balsa.\u00a0 There is a little extra wood here, but remember, I build for Outdoor.<\/p>\nI’ll see if I can get this to fly by this weekend.<\/p>\n I might be persuaded to offer this as a short kit, but the drawing will need quite a bit of work, as all of the special building notes will need to be added.\u00a0 This is a straight-forward build, but certain details must be followed.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Back around 1990 and 91, I built two PBY NoCals – yes, it was silly and I didn’t know any better.\u00a0 One was heavy, had a fully covered wing, and the other was light with a pair of tiny carved … Continue reading <\/a>All of the parts separated and laid out, ready to assemble.\u00a0 Note that the pylon and the two vertical tail pieces have double, cross-grained pieces.\u00a0 This was done because these areas are under some extra stress.<\/p>\n<\/a>Various parts assembled – the tail structures and the pylon.\u00a0 Note that the pylon and vertical tail interlock with the fuselage.<\/p>\n<\/a>A detail of the fuselage.\u00a0 1\/8″ square stock (light) has been added to the fuselage as a structural spine.\u00a0 Also, small strips of 1\/32″ have been added to the back side to prevent flexing in the sheet fuselage.The two holes in the middle of the fuse will anchor the wing struts.\u00a0 Also note that the pylon will slip fit between two ribs and locate on the wing spar.<\/p>\n<\/a>All pieces assembled; now on to covering.\u00a0 I chose black tissue – for the Black Cats – very simple for a NoCal.<\/p>\n<\/a>Center Section detail:\u00a0 short 1\/8″ square motor sticks are added to the nacelles.\u00a0 Also, 1\/8″ square cross braces from the front of the nacelles to the rear of the pylon.\u00a0 This really prevents flexure of the wing.\u00a0 Note that the motor sticks re on the OUTSIDE of each nacelle.\u00a0 The nacelles have been moved out quite a bit from scale – because props have to clear the fuselage and each other.\u00a0 I will be using 4″ props.\u00a0 I use crumpled tissue on the H-stab and wing to try to combat warp-age.\u00a0 See that the dihedral break ribs are notched to accept the struts.<\/p>\n<\/a>All pieces covered, decorated, and ready for final assembly.<\/p>\n<\/a>Rear motor peg detail.\u00a0\u00a0 I will be running two motors (each a\u00a0 loop of 1\/16″, maybe less) from the prop to the rear motor hooks.\u00a0 this hook is just ahead of the vertical fin and embedded into the 1\/8″ square fuselage spine.\u00a0 Taper the 1\/8″ from this point rearward to save a little tail weight.<\/p>\n<\/a>Detail of the nose bearing and motor stick.\u00a0 Note that the prop shaft must be long enough to clear the wing leading edge.\u00a0 Care must be take when loading the motors as they run under the wings and inside of the two struts.\u00a0 Wind the motors from the rear.<\/p>\n<\/a>All done, ready to fly.\u00a0 This weighs 8.5 grams as shown (without rubber).\u00a0 The props weigh 1 gram each.\u00a0 I might have been able to save half a gram if I had scraped the Yoshida props, but I did not.\u00a0 Prior to the prop installation, I had to have a glob of clay on the nose to test the glide.\u00a0 After the props, no clay was needed to attain the same glide.\u00a0 Some might be needed once the motors are in place.<\/p>\n